PAYS BASQUE
My favorite spots in Biarritz and beyond
Earlier this month, I spent a week in Biarritz, a beautiful seaside town on the Basque coast of southwestern France. With its mix of elegance, surf culture, and old-world charm, it feels both captivating and laid-back at the same time. From Paris, so many of my wish-listed destinations are within easy reach, and that accessibility remains one of the greatest joys of life in Europe. Having only been to Biarritz once before, I was especially looking forward to spending more time there and visiting the restaurants that had long been on my list.
Basque cuisine, celebrated on both sides of the French–Spanish border, is deeply rooted in the region’s traditions and landscapes. It’s defined by a devotion to seasonal, high-quality ingredients, especially the bounty of fresh seafood, meat, and produce that the area is so richly known for. What makes it remarkable is not just the flavors themselves, but the way food is woven into daily life, from casual pintxos bars to world-renowned restaurants.
Given that food is one of my greatest joys in life, spending time in this part of the world is a bound to be a memorable experience. Basing myself in Biarritz for the week was perfect, with Guéthary, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, San Sebastián, and Getaria just a short drive away.
Biarritz
Chéri Bibi | A favorite of mine — a special restaurant focusing on local, seasonal, and organic produce, with a weekly changing menu and a unique selection of natural wines. Think contemporary Basque cuisine.
Bleach | A café that perfectly captures the essence of Biarritz surf culture. Don’t skip the banana bread.
Les Halles | A covered market that I loved stopping at to get figs, strawberries, and orange juice before going to the beach. They have everything from vegetables, fruit, seafood, coffee, meat, baked goods, etc.
Joie | A charming Italian restaurant. I got the tomato salad, pizza (loved the crust), and tiramisu.
Café Loky | My favorite spot for coffee every morning. It can get busy, but if you have time, get a cup of their V60 pour over coffee.
LOBITA Marché | Another great coffee spot located inside Les Halles.
Bali Bowls | My go-to for an açaí bowl after I’d leave the beach.
Okindegia | A bakery using local flours. Loved getting a baguette here post-açaí bowl.
Maison Adam | I had never had a macron before coming here. Up until then, I didn’t realize there was a difference between macarons and macaroons. These are traditional Basque macarons (they have an important history given this is the original recipe created for the wedding of King Louis XIV in 1660!) Their original location is in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. They also have a great selection of Gâteaux Basques.
Etxola Bibi | An open-air bar and restaurant overlooking Côte de Basque. Such a great spot for sunset drinks.
Plage du Port Vieux | I went to this beach every afternoon. It couldn’t be more idyllic — it’s charming, framed by cliffs, and offers the most beautiful view.
Just outside of Biarritz (~20ish minutes away)
Pluviôse | Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This was a top culinary experience of my life, truly. It wasn’t just the food that made it so memorable to me. To paint a picture of my experience: hyper-local produce, house-made cheese, bread baked right before service so it arrives warm with the first course, seafood from a fisherman located just a few minutes away, and ice cream so recently churned, it never made it to the freezer. Luke runs a one-man show, and it was such a joy to witness his magic. This special spot is must.
Petit Grill Basque | Saint-Jean-de-Luz. A homey restaurant serving traditional Basque cuisine. I only chose dishes from their chalkboard menu of daily specials. I had a seafood-heavy meal, and I can’t wait to go back again.
Paz&Arroz | Guéthary. What’s better than having tacos right by the ocean?
Yaoya | Guéthary. A Basque-Japanese market with produce, provisions, ceramics, and baked goods.
Providence | Guéthary. A quaint spot offering light fare, baked cookies, and coffee.
Chez Nadyne | Guéthary. A great place to stop for drinks right by the ocean.
Ostalapia | Ahetze. A charming farmhouse restaurant serving traditional Basque cuisine. It’s located in the picturesque countryside, and I had an incredible meal of mussels, steak with bone marrow, and fries.
Elizaberriko Etxeberria | Hasparren. Everything about this restaurant is very appealing to me. From the charming exterior, modern farmhouse feel with the exposed beams on the ceiling , a patio that feels like you’re in someone’s backyard, their branding, to the food (of course)..this was also a highlight meal of my trip. The food is a mix of traditional and contemporary Basque cuisine. Tip: get there early because they only have a few portions of steak and turbot available each night.
Getaria & San Sebastián (~45 minutes - 1 hour away from Biarritz)
Elkano | Getaria. An institution, and one of the best seafood restaurants in the world for a reason. They serve expertly grilled Turbot and other seafood dishes. I always appreciate restaurants where emphasis is placed on the quality of the product without too much flowering. It’s a near-impossible reservation to secure, but it’s an absolute must if you’re a seafood lover.
Elkano Txixi | Getaria. The more casual, sister restaurant to Elkano. It’s a seafood bar serving very similar, but pintxo-style portions of dishes you can get at Elkano. Try Txakoli here.
La Viña | San Sebastián. The original Basque burnt cheesecake. Absolutely incredible.
Countless pintxo bars | San Sebastián. Many of these spots post their menus right outside the door, highlighting their specialties. I didn’t take note of the names of the ones I visited, but if I were you, I’d start the day as hungry as possible and sample a pintxo or two at several places.'
Also that basque cheesecake looks like a dream
beautiful photos!!