Postcard from Ponza

The sweetest escape to Italy's best-kept island secret

Jul 07, 2025

I'm always drawn to places that exude authenticity over luxury, charm over refinement, and a sense of place as opposed to curated perfection. Last month, I spent a few days in Ponza, and I’m happy to report it perfectly embodies that spirit. As the largest island of the Pontine archipelago, Ponza is best known as a beloved holiday destination for Italians. When I shared my travel plans, most friends had never heard of the island, and even locals asked how I had discovered such a hidden gem.

Fair warning: getting to Ponza is logistically intricate. The typical route involves flying into Rome, taking a roughly one-hour train to Anzio, and then catching a ferry that gets you to the island in about 90 minutes. As you approach the idyllic harbor, you'll see rows of shops and restaurants in splashes of pink, baby blue, and yellow, with small fishing boats tightly packed along the waterfront — and I promise, you'll be so happy you made the trip.

We stayed at the Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla, a charming hotel just a five-minute walk from the port. The rooms were straightforward but comfortable, and we enjoyed a shared terrace with a beautiful view of the sea.

Our first full day was spent out on the water. In retrospect, this was the perfect introduction to the island as we really got to take in the island's beauty and get a sense of where we would want to go next. We hired a skipper, Simone, who has a classic grotto boat and spent the day swimming and discovering spots only accessible by boat. This was the perfect way to experience the island's rugged coastline, with its dramatic limestone cliffs and secluded coves. We stopped at La Marina for lunch, a quaint and vibrant restaurant on Cala Feola, where we enjoyed mussels and seafood pasta.

Pulling up to La Marina & the view from our table

One restaurant I had hoped to visit, but didn't make it to, is Da Enzo al Frontone, a tiny, boat-access-only spot that feels like a well-kept secret. With very little online presence, it holds a special kind of allure. The owner, Enzo, personally picks you up by boat and serves freshly grilled seafood right by the water. It's at the top of my list for when I return.

We also dined at Acqua Pazza and Ristorante EEA, both of which are situated high above the port and offer beautiful views overlooking the sea. For a cappuccino and something sweet, we loved Pasticceria Gildo. No matter the time of day, there was always a line out front and every table was full, which made it clear it's one of the island's most-loved haunts.

Sunset dinner at Acqua Pazza & a cafe that is almost my name!

With just one full day left on the island, we chose to spend it at La Caletta. Nestled into the rocks is a small service bar offering drinks and snacks, along with chairs and umbrellas available to rent. With its sheltered coves and calm waters, it was the perfect place to spend the day dipping in and out of the sea. The only thing I regret is not packing water shoes. Next time!